My trip to Chablis with the Black Wine Professionals was so full of activities and things to explore, it has to be broken up into segments; producer focuses where i’ll wax poetic about wine and get all nerdy, and then nibbles and excursions where I GUSH over delicious dishes and you guessed it, more wine.
Welcome to the streets and the eats baby.
After our visit to Croix de Montjoie we headed up to the namesake town of Vezelay to see what all the noise was about.
Inside the Basilica, the displays of artisanry that was created in the middle ages was astounding, and the level of detail preserved, a miracle in itself. The stonework and the preservation of it’s story have struggled to stay together, but the Abbey’s diligence helps to maintain it throughout time. Past the sculptings and plays light in the main hall are remnants of Mary Magdalene. In the cave turned basement, the ceilings, once a vividly painted spectacle for all to see, now dulled by time. The floors of the cave are uneven and reminded me of the streets in the Old City of Jerusalem, marbleized under the weight of footprints. Isabelle was able to pick up a key to the old church cellar that hid monks and made wine.
Lunch was planned for the SY la Terrasse, a historic tavern that had been serving people since the middle ages.
The menu was simple, two courses or three, and a few selections in either, but a robust wine list. After we all decided on food, the tuna steak with beurre blanc and salad for me, and the goat cheese salad for Julia and our guide Isabelle, and I chose a wine we had tasted earlier in the day, the Domaine Croix de Montjoie’s 2021 L’Elegante. The wine’s racy acidity ran it’s arms down mine while it’s strong clay upbringing gave the crisp orchard fruits a seriousness that was giving Swayze. It was complex and balanced without being overbearing, and was a perfect teammate to the flavors of our meals.
After tasting with Bersan ended in a glass of rare, from the cast pinot noir based Ratafia, it was back to the hotel for a nap a quick costume change before dinner at Le Malfoux. Okay, so maybe we also made a pit stop at a quarry in Chitry so I could get my own exogrya virgula but that’s another story that CUSTOMS WILL NOT READ.
Located across from our next producer, Le Malfoux is a wine lovers go to stop in either part of Burgundy. Classic burgundian food with a wine list full of local favorites and historic vintages alike, it’s no wonder it made the BIVB‘s itinerary.
Julia and I both chose to do 3 courses at dinner with pate, followed by the local pot stew and cheese for her and the melon soup, salmon and apricot tartan for me.
I chose a limited-production wine from a new and exiting winemaker I had heard of to pair with our meal and juxtapose to what lay ahead. Maison Camille Thirret, a micro-negoce husband and wife team of Burgundian Camille Thirret and Canadian born Matt Chittick. The pair have a dearth of connections between them, but it’s Camille’s compassion and dedication to the land that makes the Maison one to watch. Though not certified, the vineyards are farmed organically, and our selection, the Volnay Les Grand Champs pings with bright acidity and dark red fruits wrapped in a silky bow. The sensual gloved touch of Volnay isn’t hidden under oak nor its presence muted on the palate. The 50 year old vines situated under the 1er cru “les Mitans” was the perfect lusciously spiced Volnay that ebbed and flowed with our meals.
As Julia and I promenaded down the streets of Chablis and back to our rooms, I couldn’t help but wonder what waited for us tomorrow at the super negoce of Chablis, William Fevre. Would we find wines with such a gentle touch? Would such a large negociant even find qualms with the same as those of the smaller, newer winemakers?
I’d have to wait to find out.
Loris the Somm 
Leave a comment